Thursday, October 13, 2005


Sunset Grill

The Sunset Grill serves Certified Angus Beef (tm). They do not want you to forget that. They put the Certified Angus Beef logo on the hostess's podium. They put the Certified Angus Beef logo on the menu. They put the Certified Angus Beef logo on the steak itself with a little plastic pin. Thankfully, I have not seen any waiter sporting a Certified Angus Beef tattoo.

The food is quite good. They have a fair amount of seafood and several chicken and pork selections. The staff has obviously put some time into coming up with good combinations of herbs and seasonings for these. They also offer an interesting chopped salad with cinamon-roasted nuts and a variety of soups. Most of the dinners also come with an interesting Sunset Grill trademark, rolls with mango butter. And, of course, there is a large selection of steaks, which can be topped with your choice of nearly a half dozen kinds of herbed butter. All the steaks are, in case you might forget, Certified Angus Beef. Not that I have ever been able to tell the difference between how an Angus cow and a Herford cow taste.

They have a fair number of fruit-flavored tropical drinks. In fact, there is always a tank of berries soaking in vodka on the bar counter to make fresh Berry Ticklers, which are fairly sweet punch-like cocktails. If you aren't looking for an adult beverage, they have a wide selection of non-alchoholic drinks too. Their bartenders put just as much care into making an elaborate multi-layered fruit punch as into the ones with booze.

Cleanliness is usually quite good. They even keep an assortment of lotions and hair care items in the restroom. I say usually because the last time I was there it looks like their cleaning staff had not yet noticed a particular and probably recent, uh, contamination. I'm pretty sure this was an isolated case and happens just about anywhere.

But if there is one nagging flaw to the place, it is that it seems as if they've sold out compared to what they used to be. The Sunset Grill used to be a lot more offbeat, looking like a beach house restraunt in Key West had somehow fallen through a wormhole and landed in Covington. They still have two large saltwater aquariums and a few other beach cues, but it used to have so many wooden parrot carvings that you wondered if Jimmy Buffet ran the place. They also used to offer an astonishing variety of sandwich toppings, so you could skip the usual lettuce, pickles, tomatoes, and onions in favor of a burger with avocado and bell peppers, with the diced peppers brought out in a gleaming stainless steel cup. I really miss some of their quirkier fare, and wish they hadn't tried to become more mainstream.

10205 Access Rd.
Covington, GA

We went last night to the Sunset Grill and found out they are closed. :( I did some web searching and the building has recently been leased.
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